Thursday, 3 May 2012

They don't live here anymore.

A group of us did some amazing seeing of sights over the weekend, sights that involved a volcano, a helicopter and an almost deserted island!

20 years ago the British Colony of Montserrat was not unlike every other island in this part of the world, small and comfortable with around 20,000 inhabitants on it's 100 square km of land.

In the mid-90's things started to go pear-shaped for the island when, like a bear being poked whilst coming out of hibernation, the Soufriere Hills started to come alive and get really angry. This volcano had been dormant since before people had called this place home, however come July 1995, the place erupted and like a giant cattle-prod, left its burning scar right across the torso of the island.

There have been a few smaller episodes since, the latest being in 2010, however the evidence of the initial eruption is still the most telling, and forever will be. Over 2/3 of the Montserrat is now an exclusion zone, and there is now less than 6,000 people calling it home. It's capital city, Plymouth, is no more with Brades taking over as de facto.

I have seen volcanic ruins before in Samoa and Pompeii, however there is a definite sense of realism that hits home when you see the aftermath of this one. An abandoned town, still covered in ash and boulders bigger than the buildings they have crushed. Cars still upturned in the streets and vagrant trees finally reclaiming the town. The rich smell of Sulphur still leaking out of the caldron and the overall view that this place is more like Mars than a tropical island in the Caribbean.

It was an amazing thing to see, but a very sombre one nonetheless.

Ears: Monument Valley

April being safe.

Our ride!

Tilt shift......pffft whatever.

Into the blue.

Looking east over the south coast of Antigua.

First eyes on Montserrat.

Mars? Moon? Middle Earth?

Near the summit.

Divide

East side of the island.

This and the following photos are all that is left of the capital city; Plymouth.





Plymouth on the western side of the island.

The old Wharf of Plymouth


Stand tall.


The steaming summit.

Looking South

Looking North, the new capital, Brades is at the foot of the small hill on the point in the distance.

Sheree, Hannah and Cam.

April riding shotgun.

The outer reef of Antigua.

Our favourite little Sunday afternoon jaunt, Sheer Rocks at Coco Bay.

Coming home.

St. John's, Antigua's capital.

We went to Sheer Rocks for a debrief, this is why I love it. Looking out over Coco Bay.

Sunset over Coco Bay.

Saturday, 28 April 2012

Classics Week

I was lucky enough to get on a boat for the Antigua Classic Regatta last week. The vessel in question is Nordwind, built in Germany 1939, she is 85ft long and a pretty nice piece of history.

The crew on the boat was quite a mix, with nine different nationalities featuring in the crew of eleven. The racing was fun, with over 50 classic yachts ranging in size from 26ft to 203ft, all sailing around just offshore from the entrance to English Harbour.

We got third in our division, so we were happy, but unless you win there is always the view that you could have done better. But I had a blast so I am happy!

As a side note, Duran Duran made an appearance for the regatta. They did a film clip for one of their songs in the 80's in English Harbour, on a yacht called Eilean. Since then, she went a little unloved and fell into disrepair, until a couple of years ago where it was shipped to Italy and brought back to life. She made her homecoming debut at this regatta and there was a big who-har about it.

As for Nordwind, they leave for Newport RI in the coming weeks before taking on the North West Passage (goes over the top of America from Nova Scotia to Vancouver). In doing so they will become the oldest yacht ever to complete this, as well as one of the only yachts to circumnavigate the American Continent, having rounded Cape Horn a few years ago. So good luck to them!

I would like to thanks Hans and Alex for giving me the chance to sail on Nordwind, she is a lovely boat and still has plenty of miles left in her!

Ears: Duran Duran - Rio
The filmclip filmed in the area in the 80's, this is not the norm on a boat!
Me


Hernan

Hans, Alex and Myself

Toto on trim.

Essential in the Caribbean


Morning



Tuiga


Nordwind

Elena




Coral of Cowes

Pigeon beach




Elena

Happy Hans

Happier Valentine

Trying for the speed blur, it was a bit too sunny though.






Tuiga chasing

Tuiga on the hip

Elena

Crew Photo

Duran Duran, not sure what you think; but I think Roger may be in the middle of some relief here......