Saturday, 12 July 2014

Cuba: Tag me in it.

After leaving the beauty and wildness of The Galapagos Islands, it was time to hit the beauty and wildness that makes up Cuba (albeit a different kind). As with most travel, we thought we would go with the flow for our time there, usually checking the internet for things to do and places to stay at on a day to day basis, however after walking in to a few cafe's and bars asking if they had wi-fi, and getting "this is Cuba" as a response, we soon realised it wouldn't be that easy.

Ears: Buena Vista Social Club

Like everything in Cuba since the trade embargo was enforced (which started in 1960), Cuba has been somewhat frozen in time. This is the reason why all the cars are Classics, there is no internet available, and the standard cost for a Cuba Libre is at an impressive $1.50.

To me the most impressive thing about Cuba is the fact that people are outside hanging with friends and family, playing cards or dominos, kids playing marbles or football/baseball in the street. There is not a single iPhone to be seen, no one is taking selfies, updating there status or even thinking about jumping on to Tinder - in this regard it truly is a paradise and seeing a lot of the kids in the street took me back to my childhood, something I feel a lot of kids these days will never experience.


Street book market in the Plaza d'Armas,  Old Town Havana.







Heerey getting all Cuba Libre





View from our Casa, these guys played domino's for about 5 hours one afternoon, a typical scene anywhere in Cuba.



Monument to Che in Havana's Plaza de la Revolucion. 


Hannah getting taken to the Buena Vista Social Club by Marcelo
One of the issues with no internet, was sorting ourselves out with where to go, doing minimal research on Cuba prior to landing (as is usually the case anywhere), I remembered that Trinidad was one place we wanted to go to for a few days (about 4 hours drive from Havana), however we didn't really know how to get there. Enter Marcelo, as seen below........


Marcelo saw us wandering the streets during our internet searching phase (it was actually legit as we needed to send some information to the place we were staying in Nicaragua about our airport pick up or something). He, like many of these Cubans, are your best friend and come across way too eager that you know it is a scam or something is up. Sure enough though he lead us to the one place in Havana that has internet that you can use without actually staying there; there is internet, but only in the big "American Style" hotels.

After doing our business on the net, we walked back outside to find him waiting for us, "here we go" we all thought thinking he was gonna try and scam us of something. Sure enough he says come to the Buena Vista Social Club tonight, tickets are this much, I will take you there now. We sit down and they are setting up for the night to come (it was about 3pm), we buy a few mojito's and buy him one hoping it persuades him to not kidnap us tonight, and to our surprise within a few minutes we have the tickets and it is all dandy.

Doing the small talk we ask him about how to get to Trinidad, (we got a price off another bartender earlier in the day and though we would compare). Marcelo says he has a friend who will get us there in a big American car, he names the price, quite a good price too) and asks where we are staying (another possible dodgy thing to tell him, but by then we started to trust him a little). Then he says he will pick us up from the house at 8am the day after tomorrow.

That night we had a pretty nice night listening to some amazing Cuban music at the Buena Vista Social Club (it is a pretty famous thing and no doubt many of you have heard of it).

Two days later we find ourselves in this car, being driven by this wrecking ball looking guy with Marcelo riding shotgun.

Hannah still dodgy, an hour outside of Havana.

Plenty of places to run, but nowhere to hide out here.....
 Turns out Marcelo's parents live out in the bush somewhere, he was visiting them for a few days, our driver then took us the rest of the way - he spoke no english, our spanish is limited to greetings, small talk and how to order food and beverages. Next thing he pulls over for a piss, and asks us if anyone wants to drive, Heerey puts his hand up for is and drives....... for all of 90 seconds before the Wrecking Ball decides it better if he drives.

Still got this shot though.

We made it to Trinidad, it was #2 or 3 in places to visit in Cuba on TripAdvisor, needless to say, we were actually a little underwhelmed when we went there.

Our host family in Havana told us to ring them when we got to Trinidad to make sure we were alright (they we obviously dodgy on the car ride too - which heightened our worries!). When we found somewhere to stay, the new hosts rang up our Havana friends (the phone number was all of 5 digits), and spoke to them for about 20 minutes, laughing like old friends. Turns out they don't know each other, it is just how Cubans are!



We were walking around, and I could swear the photo's I had seen had some beach or something in it (Trinidad was actually about 10km inland which is where our initial disappointment came from). Then in a bookstore I was flicking through a Cuba tourist photo book and saw a photo of Playa Ancon - Trinidad. I asked the lady where it was and she said 10 minute taxi ride that way.

Within the hour we were here.




After a few days on the beach drinking Mojito's, Cuba Libre's and having cheeseburgers in paradise at Playa Ancon, we found our way back to Havana and back at our original Casa and Host family. They and the hosts we had in Trinidad are still probably the nicest people we have met on the trip.


After travelling through the rest of South America, heck most of the world for that matter, we were surprised at just how happy the people were. All the propaganda about Cuba and Communists and all that seems to be completely false when you get here. There is no one in poverty, no one begging on the streets, the streets are clean and safe, and everyone just seems to be happy. Everybody seemed to have time for people, kids actually playing in the streets, parents sitting on the front steps talking with their neighbours. Sure there are always people trying to scam you because you are a tourist, but generally people were happy and helpful.












There is a bit going on here.


Not sure what to make of this statue?

Typical friend when having food at a street side cafe/bar in Cuba


Overall, Cuba is probably one of the highlights of the trip, we didn't really know what to expect here, but the music was good, drinks were cheap, the people were fun, the beaches were amazing, the city was unlike anything you would ever see and there was not one iPad, McDonalds, GoPro or Facebook mentioned the whole time.

Thursday, 10 July 2014

Galapagos Islands: The End of the World

After finishing up in Peru it was time to move on to Ecuador, more specifically, the Galapagos Islands.

Ears: Exsonvaldes

The Galapagos are about 18 islands, smack bang on the Equator about 1000km west of mainland Ecuador. Everyone has pretty much heard of them, the fame coming mainly as a result of Charles Darwin, he based a lot of his ideas in The Evolution of Species from information he gathered whilst in the area (surprisingly he did only spend 5 weeks here). 

One of the big reasons why it was such an important place for Darwin is the fact that it is so remote, and quite a harsh and young environment. Darwin's Finches are a species of 15 types of Finch, and probably provided Darwin with his breakthrough moment. He noticed that all the birds were pretty much the same, except for their beaks. After studying them he realised that the beaks are different and allowed the birds to eat the food supply that was available to them on each island or area - some ate seeds, others ate cactus while others ate fruit; and there is the basis of Survival of the Fittest!

Another reason why we all know about the Galapagos is the Giant Tortoises, these guys were actually a highlight for me to see, I don't think I have ever seen an animal quite like them. Such a slow (and I mean really slow!) animal, hell they are so slow that whatever they eat takes 3 weeks to digest. They have a head a head like E.T. and eat like a young child who has just realised they have a mouth.

The Galapagos is mainly a number of volcanoes, as a result, the islands are full of cool little tunnels like this one - its about 900m long and 10-15m diameter.


St. Bartholome Island, the day we went here started off pretty normally. However, on the bus trip to the boat I felt a bit off, over the next 8 hours I ended up vomiting 4 times, including one from this very spot where I took this photo. Nice place though.

Two minutes before this shot, I was on the ground vomiting - I went another 3 times before finally getting to the hospital for a quick jab and some other drugs.

One more reason why the Galapagos are unique, is the Humboldt Current, a cold water current that runs up to the Equator from way down south, this brings a heap of nutrients, which in turn brings a heap of sea life.

The local fish co-op, basically a big tin shed in the middle of Puerto Ayora, just like any other fish market, except the real locals crash it every day.

I was amazed at how disciplined the Sea Lions were, like trained dogs, they know exactly what they are allowed to have (usually the tails and the skin of the fish), however sometimes these guys won't accept some of them!

One tail please!

Anyone who has ever had a dog would probably find this photo somewhat familiar.

The local pelicans get there fair share too.

Sniff
Las Grietas is this crazy collapsed lava tunnel that is connected to the sea by a small opening, the water is probably the clearest water you could ever swim in.





We went to a beach, it was called Tortuga Bay

Las Tintoreras, just off Isabela Island, a heap of these guys call it home.
Bruise Brothers

Typical scene




We climbed the Volcano Sierra Negra, the second biggest Volcanic Crater in the World

 There is the crater.

Not sure what this guy thought he was doing.

Not sure what these guys thought they were doing either?

The Blue Footed Boobie.
Hey, my eyes are up here!


I always thought the coolest sea animal is the dolphin, whenever I saw them on the boat when we were sailing I could watch them all day, an amazing animal and it always baffled me how hey could chill out swimming just inches in front of a boat doing 10 knots and having fun with it. No matter what my mood is, seeing them always makes me smile.

However after spending a good amount of time with Sea Lions, it is sad to say it, but I think the Sea Lion is a cooler animal......... just look at them!



Whenever I see penguins like this I just think about those guys in the Madagascar Movies - no doubt these guys are scheming something here.

Heerey and a turtle, Hannah is also in the background

Swam through this area just off the coast of Isabela Island, saw sharks, stingrays, turtles, penguins and a heap of fish.


Just a casual seahorse in the wild for your troubles.